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A bit about weaving

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  • #793

    afc
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    Weaving:
    In very simplistic terms:
    During the weaving process, a set of fibers are laced together in a 90 degree angle. Fibers conducted from the left side to the right side are called “weft” or “fill”. The fibers conducted from the back to the front are called warp. The fibers in the warp are lifted & lowered with the help of harness frames. Min. two harness frames are needed and must move in the opposite direction. This way they create a channel. The Weft fiber then can be conducted through the channel. Once the fiber made it to the right side, the reed moves toward the front and packs in the weft fiber toward the fabric. The reed resembles a large comb and through each slot a fiber is conducted. Once the reed packed the weft fiber in to the fabric, the harness frames reverse the direction, thus locking in the weft fiber and opening up a channel again, for the process to start over. Now the shedding has taking place and the machine conducted one pick.

    With up to 24 harness frames, a weaver can create many different patterns and weave styles. Plain weave, Satin weave, Twill weave, basket weave are a few common weave styles.

    A fabric is explained by mentioning the weave style (e.g. Plain Weave), plus the density of a fiber (e.g. 136 tex), (plus the picks/ inch in warp) by (picks / inch in weft). Some weave styles also explain the combination of harnesses to move at any given time. E.g. 1 harness moves in the opposite direction of seven harnesses. But also there could be a combination of 5/3 with a total of 8 harnesses.

    There are various techniques to conduct the fiber in the weft. This can be done with rapiers, airjet, water jet, projectiles or shuttle. All of these techniques have advantages and disadvantages. It depends on the fiber, the final product, the circumstances present and the efficiencies you need to yield, to select the right machine and machine width.

    the attached video shows a Dornier Rapier Loom weaving open mesh Basalt.

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    WeavingOpenMeshBasalt2

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    • This discussion was modified 6 days ago by  TEXBOOKHOST.

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